ARGENTINA


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Chapter 37: A Big Decision in Northern Argentina

mother daughter swimming in rocky river canyon
Mary & Lilly swimming up a river canyon where we camped for 3 nights
Scrambling around in a red rock canyon somewhere in northern Argentina
vanlife camp on river
Our Christmas campsite, in the Andes mountains of Argentina, near the border with Chile
van christmas tree
Each year we make a paper Christmas tree and decorate the walls of Vancito
girl lake sunset
The lake where we broke down, that triggered our “big decision” to live somewhere for a year
family bbq parrilla argentina
Noemi (front right) and Kike (back left) who we met at the lake when we broke down, and invited us to stay at their house, took John fishing, and hosted a big BBQ for us

Chapter 38: Locked Down

Not a bad place to be stuck in lockdown
John jumping off the rocks into one of so many different swimming holes near us

escalada climbing mogotes capilla del monte argentina
I could ride my bike to this climbing area – Mogotes
paredones capilla del monte argentina escalada climbing
Paredones about 15 mins drive from our house
las gemelas capilla del monte
We can walk from our back door onto trails
las gemelas capilla del monte argentina
Lilly, John, and the dogs summiting Las Gemelas

The endlessly warm, sunny weather made it easy to socialize outdoors

Father’s day brunch in late June, that’s the equivalent of late December in the northern hemisphere
Lilly turned 9 years old! That’s her third birthday on the road.
hammmock capilla del monte uritorco argentina
Moon rising over Mt Uritorco, as witnessed from my favorite spot in our house
Jim and Frida relaxing by our much-larger-than-usual paper Christmas tree

Chapter 39: Patagonia and the End of the Road

girl fishing patagonia argentina

So many lakeside camps, monkey puzzle trees, fishing, and hiking

girl fishing patagonia argentina

Gorgeous hike up Cerro Belvedere outside of Villa la Angostura town:

father daughter hike lake mountain argentina cerro belvedere

Rock hopping hike from the top of a ski lift out to the climbers’ refugio Frey:

girl hiking refugio frey bariloche argentina

Lilly’s climbing breakthrough at Piedra Parada:

girl climbing piedra parada argentina
girl climbing rappelling piedra parada argentina

Happy days in Piedra Parada canyon. We ended up climbing 3 days in a row, always going to routes that would be good for Lilly, unwilling to risk breaking the spell of comfort and happiness that had descended upon her.

mother daughter piedra parada canyon argentina

The Famous Patagonian Wind

We can’t open the door of the van if we’re facing away from the wind, for fear it would be ripped off.

We see metal road signs on two large stakes sunk in concrete in the ground – snapped in half simply by force of wind!

When I crouch down to pee next to the van, the pee travels horizontally.

Motorcycles traveling towards us are riding at a 45 degree angle, to compensate for the wind.

These signs are posted everywhere:

wind viento sign patagonia argentina

We each did a wind photo – can you guess which one we faked?

girl in patagonia wind argentina
girl wind van window patagonia

lol

El Chalten – the real Patagonia!

Driving towards the jagged peaks of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre felt surreal. This was the “Patagonia” that we had heard about for so many years. This was the true ending of our epic road trip that we’ve been planning and living for so long!

patagonia mountains van family

We enjoyed countless amazing hikes starting in El Chalten.

cerro torre el chalten patagonia mother daughter hike

It looks like a fake back drop, even when you’re there in person!

family fitz roy el chalten patagonia

Perito Moreno glaciar made for a good spontaneous science lesson. There was a regular cracking and booming noise as enormous chunks of ice flaked off and crashed into the lake.

glacier perito moreno mother daughter argentina

Lilly’s first multi-pitch climb

Since Lilly’s climbing breakthrough in Piedra Parada, we climbed in a couple of other areas in Patagonia and she continued to be psyched. So, we detoured on the way home from Patagonia to re-visit our favorite climbing area in Argentina – Arenales, near Mendoza. Last time we were here, before COVID, we climbed only a little because we felt bad leaving Lilly at the base by herself. This time, we had our sights set on Lilly’s first multi-pitch climb! (“Multi-pitch” = first person climbs up, second person joins them up top, and then you continue another rope length higher, and another, and another, eventually getting to a summit).

Our campsite for 4 days. River is just on other side of van. Lovely spot!

arenales picnic family mendoza climbing argentina

We did a 3 pitch climb the first day, and Lilly had no issues. So then we made a plan for a long route to summit a spire the following day – El Zorro, 210 meters (about 700 feet), one section of 5.8 but mostly 5.6. We hiked to a statue of Jesus and started climbing! Lilly got scared in two tough spots but she climbed to the top with a smile on her face. What a day!

Spot Vancito parked at the river way down at the bottom? (top of photo):

girl climbing arenales mendoza argentina

Proud family on the summit!

el zorro summit arenales mendoza argentina family

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